From the Colorful to the Field-Gray Coat

Prussia dominated the Imperial Army not only in organizational and weapons-technical matters but also in clothing. After the founding of the Empire in 1871 and the incorporation or accession of the non‑Prussian military contingents, a process of harmonization began that also manifested itself visually — in the uniforms¹. In the Imperial Constitution of 1871 Article 63 stated: “With regard to clothing, the basic colors and the cut of the Royal Prussian Army shall be authoritative. It is left to the commander of the respective contingent to determine the external badges (cockades etc.).”

Details were uniformly regulated by the clothing regulations². The regiments or independent battalions were allocated fixed lump sums and procured clothing with these funds. The units were thus responsible for procurement and maintenance themselves. At higher levels, the Army Administrative Department and the subordinate clothing offices were responsible for the administration, provision and control of the funds for clothing. When units procured clothing, monetary advantages could be achieved through economic skill. With the surplus value, additional sets could be acquired. However, clothing was procured centrally by the respective unit only for non‑commissioned officers and enlisted men; officers, medical officers, civil servants had to buy theirs themselves, as did the one‑year volunteers. In principle the responsible parties for procuring clothing were the respective commander and the relevant paymaster; in practice the actual management regularly fell to a so‑called clothing commission. Manufacturing was carried out externally or internally in regimental workshops. Official samples of the individual clothing and equipment items prescribed had to be observed. Storage of clothing and equipment was the duty of the quartermaster non‑commissioned officers. Specific wearing periods and fixed maximum prices were stipulated for the individual items. A certain number of sets were kept in the depot for the soldiers, regularly 4 complete outfits for each non‑commissioned officer or private. In addition, good economy could produce additional sets, which then improved the unit’s appearance. Besides the usual (blue) uniforms, soldiers additionally wore the — unattractive — drill suit or the Litewka. Soldiers could also voluntarily procure their own uniforms; these were usually of better quality than depot pieces and were used as dress uniforms. A British eyewitness reports on the outward appearance of the Prussian Guard (infantry): “... The men seemed to let themselves go and in their dirty‑brown work uniforms of canvas they made no good impression compared with ours at home. As far as the basic coat is concerned, each soldier had no fewer than five greatcoats, yet when his time was up they were passed on to the next man. Since there is little smoke and dirt in the air over Potsdam, the dark‑blue greatcoats last much longer than our scarlet ones in London”³.

Prussian uniforming before 1840 was influenced by Russia, especially for the foot troops. Under King Frederick William IV there was then a radical stylistic break in the 1840s. In 1843 the single‑breasted Waffenrock replaced the previous frock‑like uniform coat, and the Pickelhaube took the place of the broad shako typical of the Biedermeier period. Initially the Pickelhaube was almost twice as high as later; only over time did it develop into a distinctly elegant headpiece. The Pickelhaube was gradually adopted by all other German states and was even worn abroad, e.g., in Sweden and Russia. From the beginning the front of the Pickelhaube was adorned with the eagle as ornamentation. There were various variants. This headgear, officially simply called a helmet in service, became the classic characteristic of the Prussian military and over time both at home and abroad became the political symbol of Prussian‑shaped militarism par excellence^4.

The Pickelhaube was worn as a black lacquered leather helmet with different helmet ornaments/ fittings by most branches/ units of the Imperial Army. The cuirassiers, the Saxon heavy horse (guard riders/ carabiniers) and the mounted chasseurs wore metal models with a long lowered rear brim. The artillery had (except — until 1916 — the Bavarian) a ball instead of the typical spike as a helmet topper. In addition, shakos were worn by the Jäger, telegraph, aeronautical (Luftschiffer) and aviation battalions and by the machine‑gun detachments. The Uhlans wore the czapka based on Polish models and the hussars adopted fur caps from 1850.

A conspicuous outward characteristic of the 1st Guard Regiment on Foot and the Kaiser‑Alexander Guard Grenadier Regiment was special parade caps of old Prussian form. The former regiment had received grenadier caps in 1824 based on a Russian model. They had a yellow metal plate with star, eagle and crown. From 1826 these were also worn by the unmounted officers. The (III.) fusilier battalion received similar caps in 1848. From 1889 the caps of the I. battalion received the Semper‑Talis band. In 1894 the new old‑Prussian style grenadier caps were introduced; the old caps — without the aforementioned helmet or cap band — were given to the Kaiser‑Alexander Guard Grenadier Regiment. The metal plate was now white (nickel‑silver), the crown of the headpiece was encircled with metal. Officers and NCOs with portepee wore a silver national emblem; cockades were not worn on the caps, but scale chains (from the Pickelhauben) were. From 1912 mounted officers also wore such caps.

The dominant main garment of the Imperial Army was the aforementioned single‑breasted tunic; only the cuirassiers/ mounted chasseurs/ Saxon guard riders wore the Koller, the Uhlans the Ulanka and the hussars the Attila or the fur. The tunic for the infantry regiments — except for the Saxon Rifle Regiment No. 108 — was always dark blue; only the Bavarian infantry regiments wore coats/ cloth trousers in the traditionally light‑blue color. From 1896 the dark blue tunic became increasingly lighter in tone. The line infantry regiments for the most part wore tunics with rounded collars and Brandenburg sleeve cuffs.

Some regiments, however, had Swedish and the Saxon units so‑called German sleeve cuffs. Not only the Prussian Guard infantry was distinguished by lace ornamentation on the tunic, but several other regiments had cap‑lace or old‑Prussian lace without a mirror on the collar and on the sleeve cuffs or flaps.

After the state unification, based on the provisions of the North German Confederation constitution, a unified Imperial Army was created after 1871, but the system of military conventions was retained. The different histories of the various contingents, despite the requirement of uniformity in training, armament and clothing, were reflected in numerous uniform‑related peculiarities, and especially under Kaiser Wilhelm II this optical petty‑statism was even promoted for the sake of the respective corps spirit⁵. Above all, the different historical lines of tradition manifested themselves in the differing helmet ornamentation⁶. Thus various Hanoverian and Nassau infantry regiments were distinguished by special helmet cords or sleeve bands in memory of the military achievements of their predecessors in the Napoleonic Wars.

Particularly conspicuous was the uniform of the Brunswick Infantry Regiment No. 92 (Brunswick) with the black field coat worn until 1886 with cornflower‑blue collar, epaulettes and Polish‑style sleeve cuffs and (10) black cords on the chest⁷. The skull emblem applied from 1909 (01.04., officially introduced on 27.01.1912) by the whole regiment to the heraldic eagle on the helmet was intended to recall “the famous Black Company” under Duke Frederick William of Brunswick.

The Württemberg infantry still wore foreign‑looking caps in 1870/71 and, as another peculiarity, a double‑breasted Waffenrock until 1892. By contrast, the uniforms of the Baden, Kurhessen and Mecklenburg forces had always been very similar to Prussian uniforming.

After the Saxon army was incorporated as the XII Army Corps within the external framework of the Prussian army by convention of 07.02.1867, its uniforming was also adapted. The Saxon tunic, however, had a shorter skirt than the Prussian model and the red piping ran also around the bottom. The round (German) sleeve cuffs had one button on and one above the cuff. The shoulder straps also retained a different form.

The outward appearance of the Bavarian infantry was shaped not only by the aforementioned light‑blue uniform customary since 1799, but also by the Raupenhelm (caterpillar helmet) worn until 1886.

The Jäger wore the classic green color for their branch, dark green for the Mecklenburg Jäger Battalion No. 14. The Saxon Jäger (Battalions No. 12 and 13) wore the uniform like the Saxon Rifle Regiment No. 108, only with white buttons. The tunic (and the cap) were thus made of dark‑green cloth; collar and sleeve cuffs were black.

A particular characteristic of the Saxon riflemen and Jäger was the shako, to which for every service a black plume without funnel was worn. The officers’ shako was covered in silk felt, the ranks’ with black cloth. As helmet badge the white star with the Saxon coat of arms and a hunting horn was worn. Officers also wore leather chinstraps on the shako. Different officers’ ranks were indicated by bands of gold embroidery on the upper edge of the shako. The belt plate bore the name‑inscription of Prince George with crown. But there were exceptions here too: the Bavarian Jäger battalions No. 1, 2 were light‑blue uniformed.

The relatively late‑established machine‑gun detachments were immediately given uniforms adapted to modern requirements. They wore cap, tunic, cloth/ boot/ riding trousers of gray‑green cloth. Collars and sleeve cuffs (Swedish) were red. Red piping ran down the front of the tunic and along the pocket flaps. The shako had a gray‑green cloth cover and a brown‑varnished top with similarly varnished brims and ear‑leathers. The shako chinstrap, like the rest of the leather equipment (belt/ cross‑belt), was made of browned leather, as were the cavalry boots and gaiters; unwaxed laced shoes were worn with the latter. The Guard machine‑gun detachments Nos. 1 and 2 were distinguished by yellow lace on the collar and on the sleeve cuffs; the Guard Machine‑Gun Detachment No. 2 (Berlin) however had black insignia and Brandenburg sleeve cuffs (similar to the Guard Rifle Battalion).

In 1842 the Koller replaced the previous frock for the cuirassiers. Initially the skirt was still bell‑shaped. The Koller consisted of white kirsey and had hooks and eyes at the front instead of buttons. The collar was white, the sleeve cuff Swedish and otherwise kept in the branch color. A braid in the respective branch color ran down the collar and front and was also on the sleeve cuffs. Besides the white Koller (made of kirsey) the cuirassiers also had a dark‑blue tunic with Swedish sleeve cuffs. A braid in the branch color was worn on the collar and on the sleeve cuffs. On the tunic of the Life‑Cuirassier Regiment a white piping ran around the collar and sleeve cuffs as well as down the front and along the pocket flaps.

The cuirass not only gave the cuirassiers their name but also distinguished them as members of the heavy cavalry and was the last glitter of chivalry. The cuirasses for ranks, consisting of breast and back plates, were made of iron and were lined with gray canvas. In the lining of the front part there was a pocket for the field cap. Since 1888 the cuirass no longer belonged to the field equipment but was worn only for parades or ceremonial duties. Officers wore lighter models.

The uniforming of the Bavarian heavy horse resembled that of the dragoons. The single‑breasted light‑blue tunic differed from that of the Bavarian infantry only by the Swedish sleeve cuffs. The shoulder straps had no insignia. Bright red stripes were worn on the long light‑blue trousers. The helmet was the older model with an angular peak and a large helmet badge. The scale chains were arched; for parade a white plume was attached. The two regiments differed by the color or material of the buttons, lace, helmet fittings etc., namely No. 1 white (silver), No. 2 yellow (gold).

The Saxon cavalry included two heavy regiments, the Guard Cavalry Regiment (founded on 31.10.1680) and the Carabinier Regiment (founded 01.11.1849). A special characteristic of the Saxon heavy cavalry was the light‑blue tunic, which resembled the Koller of the cuirassiers. The tunic had a braid around the collar, the sleeve cuffs and down the front. The branch color of the Guard riders was white. The branch color of the Carabiniers was black. The Saxon heavy cavalry wore a tombac helmet decorated with the Saxon coat of arms in nickel‑silver. For parade a silver plate — bearing the Saxon coat of arms — was screwed on.

The coat and cap of the dragoons were cornflower‑blue, only the Hessian dragoons had dark green as the base color. The regiments differed by various branch colors on the collar and on the Swedish sleeve cuffs. The cap piping strip (as well as the rim piping) and the shoulder straps also showed this color; the latter bore the regiment number or a name‑inscription. Buttons and helmet fittings were yellow or white. The riding or cloth trousers were dark blue.

The typical headgear of the Uhlans was the czapka (Tschapka). This goes back to Polish origins. The headpiece of the czapka consisted of pressed black‑varnished leather; the front brim was round. No rear brim was present. On the crown sat a mount with a square lid. On the lid the regimental emblem and the approximately 30 cm long — hanging — parade horsehair plume, as well as the so‑called chin cord, were attached. The chin cord ended in two tassels. On the mount a parade cloth flap in the respective branch color was attached for parade purposes. The crown bore the helmet ornament at the front, which varied from regiment to regiment and contingent to contingent. The (yellow) scale chains were always arched.

The cloak was made of gray cloth, had collar flaps in the color of the epaulette lining and shoulder pieces with the regiment number or name‑inscription (the epaulettes were worn only on the coat).

The Uhlan coat was the Ulanka, based on Polish models. This was dark blue for the Prussian and Württemberg regiments, dark green for the Bavarians and light blue for the Saxons. The Ulanka had so‑called Polish sleeve cuffs in the branch color; the collar and the parade flap worn only on parade also showed this color (as did the cap’s piping strip). Instead of shoulder straps epaulettes with number or name‑inscription were worn.

Under Kaiser Wilhelm II the hussar uniform still showed Hungarian folk costume elements and was, compared with other branches or cavalry species, extraordinarily colorful. From 1850 all hussar regiments wore fur caps; the Guard Hussars and Hussar Regiment No. 3 had already been equipped with them in 1843. The previous winged caps were handed over to the Landwehr cavalry. In 1853 the Attila was introduced, a coat with five rows of cords on the chest. The furs were omitted, but remained authorized for the Life‑Guard Hussars. Some regiments later received these as gifts from their owners: Nos. 1, 2, 3, 8, 12, 13, 15, 16. The Attila remained essentially unchanged until 1914 and varied in color by regiment. The rounded collar and sleeve cuffs were kept in the base color of the Attila. Closure was by loops and toggles rather than buttons. On the Attila no shoulder straps were worn, but double‑ or triple‑laid flat cords (partly with name‑inscriptions). Caps varied in color by regiment. Fur caps became common for all hussar regiments from 1850. The fur caps were made of blackened seal fur. The patriotic band (Vaterlandsbandeau), in white or yellow metal, was worn at the front of the fur cap. On top the field badge and, at parades, the plume were attached. From 1903 the plume on the fur cap was no longer hanging but standing upright. From 1912 officers’ fur caps were to be made of opossum fur (previously otter fur). The bandolier for the hussars was white; it held the black cartridge box without lid ornamentation.

The Bavarian chevaulegers wore steel‑green double‑breasted tunics with rounded collars and plain sleeve cuffs. The shoulder straps had no insignia. For parade a parade flap was buttoned on similar to the Uhlans. This showed, like the collar, sleeve cuffs, piping and swallow‑tail flaps, the regiment’s branch color. The 7th Chevauleger had white as branch color. Two regiments shared each a branch color and then differed by the metal of the buttons etc. The cloth trousers — as well as the cap — were steel‑green and had piping in the branch color. The riding trousers had a leather insert.

The pioneers wore as peacetime uniform the dark‑blue tunic with black collar and sleeve cuffs (Swedish). Collars and sleeve cuffs were piped in red; the tunic also had red piping down the front and along the pocket flaps. Buttons and lace were silver, as was the helmet fitting.

The field artillery wore dark‑blue caps and tunics similar to the infantry, but with black piping on the cap and black collar and (Swedish) sleeve cuffs. Buttons were tombac, the lace golden. The dark‑blue riding trousers had a black leather insert; the dark‑blue cloth trousers had a ponceau‑red side piping. The leather equipment was white, footwear blackened. Mounted men wore cavalry boots (with spurs), foot crews infantry boots. Since 1890 the mobile detachments of the line field artillery also had Swedish sleeve cuffs; since 1899 the shoulder straps of the field artillery received the respective corps color. The field artillery regiment belonging to the 10th Army Corps then had white shoulder straps (with red grenade and regiment number). The field artillery cloak was gray with shoulder straps like on the tunic and had black collar flaps.

The foot artillery wore dark‑blue tunics with black collars and Brandenburg sleeve cuffs. Their cuff flaps were blue. The white shoulder straps displayed the regiment number; the Guard Foot Artillery Regiment and the demonstration regiment of the foot artillery bore name‑inscriptions. The latter also had yellow‑camel‑colored lace with chapel‑litz on the collar and on the cuff flaps. The helmet of the foot artillery differed from the helmet type of the field artillery by having flat scale chains.

The train wore the tunic of dark‑blue cloth with light‑blue collar, (Swedish) sleeve cuffs and piping. The shoulder straps were light blue with a red battalion number. Leg and foot clothing corresponded to that of the field artillery. Leather equipment was white for mounted men, black for foot crews. The tunic of the Saxon train battalions was cornflower‑blue with black insignia. Since 1903 the train also wore the Pickelhaube, previously the shako. The Guard train battalion wore as helmet badge the yellow Guard eagle with the white star of the Black‑Eagle Order, plus yellow, arched scale chains and for the parade uniform a white plume. The cartridge box showed the Guard star in brass. The Bavarian train had dark‑blue riding and cloth trousers (with red piping). The helmet followed the model of the heavy cavalry with yellow fittings. The helmet had an angular peak. Otherwise the uniform corresponded to that of the Prussian train battalions. Officers wore bandolier, cartridge box, saber and belt like those of the Bavarian field artillery.

The common badge of the German army was (from 22.03.1897) the German cockade, which from edge to center had the color sequence: black‑white‑red. The Imperial cockade was always worn on the helmet, shako, czapka etc. on the right or on the peaked/service cap above the colored piping strip. On the left of the headgear or on the colored piping strip of the peaked/service cap the respective state cockade was worn. The following had their own state cockade: Anhalt, Baden, Bavaria, Brunswick, Bremen, Hamburg, Hesse, Lippe, Lübeck, Mecklenburg, Oldenburg, Prussia, Reuss, Saxony, Saxe‑Weimar, Saxon duchies, Schaumburg‑Lippe, Schwarzburg‑Rudolfstadt, Schwarzburg‑Sondershausen, Waldeck and Württemberg.

Since 1898 color‑ and standard‑bearers wore a standing collar with chain. This was to be worn at every service with helmet (shako etc.). The ornamentation of the standing collar differed between guard and line. On the right upper arm of the tunic flag and standard bearers wore an embroidered sleeve (two crossed flags with name‑inscription and crown). Furthermore their armament consisted of a special (shortened) sidearm. The sidearm resembled the infantry officer’s sword and was carried in a saber pouch on a leather cross‑belt. Color‑bearers were non‑commissioned officers.

Musicians wore as a common insignia the so‑called swallow‑nests. In addition to the swallow‑nests the musicians etc. wore the usual badges of their rank. If a formation was allowed to wear plumes with the parade uniform, these were red for the musicians etc. In guard formations the swallow‑nests had fringes.

Different dress types were distinguished: for officers parade, service, lesser service, social dress and the assembly of the uniform for special occasions. For non‑commissioned officers and ranks there were campaign dress, parade, ordnance, guard dress and dress for special occasions. For officers and medical officers (of the Prussian army) a clothing regulation (of 28.05.1896) regulated dress on and off duty as well as at court. Furthermore the clothing regulations contained precise specifications on the general composition of the various clothing, equipment, riding gear pieces and weapons of the officers and regulated the insignia (= distinguishing marks). They also listed the deviations for the units formed from the non‑Prussian federal contingents.

Officers had to procure their clothing and equipment themselves; these were regularly of better quality than the usual depot pieces of NCOs and ranks. Only privately owned items (of the one‑year volunteers) could reach a corresponding level. The peaked cap was dark blue with peak and had a red piping strip and piping. The dark‑blue tunic had a rounded collar; otherwise the branch colors corresponded to those of the ranks. Buttons were domed.

In addition to the tunic, officers also carried a Litewka, an overcoat, a paletot and a cloak. The long cloth trousers were black with red piping. Boot trousers without piping were also worn. Furthermore there were long white trousers (linen/ sailcloth) and gala trousers with 3 cm wide red stripes.

According to the clothing regulations of 1911 the officers’ helmet was made of black lacquered leather. It should fully cover the back of the head — without slipping over — the lower edge having a distance of about 3 cm above the ears. Ornaments, fittings and plume funnels were — depending on button metal — gilded or silvered. The ornament (= helmet fitting) lay with its lower edge close above the peak. The mount (smooth spike, spike neck with disc) was secured to the helmet by 4 gilded star screws on the helmet bowl. The spike was smooth — except for the 1st Guard Regiment on Foot. Its officers carried the hexagonal recessed spike of generals and had silvered stars. Ventilation in the rear brim was left open. The scale chains were gilded, only those of the 1st Guard Regiment on Foot were silvered. The lowered scale chains were not allowed to reach below the jaws and had to lie smoothly against the face, the buckle being at the level of the left lower jaw. The respective state cockade was attached on the left of the helmet, the German Imperial cockade on the right. The red center field of the latter had to be large enough so that it remained clearly visible when a scale chain lay upon it. The parade plume consisted of white or black buffalo hair. The funnel was smooth, the pin had a decorated head. The plume for the foot troops terminated at the upper edge of the helmet peaks. The front peak of the helmet was green, the rear peak lined in red. The actual lining regularly consisted of silk‑rib.

The garment that actually characterized the officer before 1914 was, however, the overcoat, modeled on the civilian frock coat⁸. Although already abolished since 1843, this practical outerwear determined the officer’s outward appearance in daily service.

In the cavalry and the (mounted) field artillery lieutenants/ first lieutenants were assigned horses that over time became their property. Officers of the mobile batteries of the field artillery received service horses. The cavalry assigned special officers’ horses to the train. The remaining ration‑entitled officers had to procure their own horses but received horse allowances. Higher officers also had to buy their horses themselves and received no subsidies. As far as officers among the foot troops were mounted on duty, they wore high boots and always carried the saber when on horseback. In Prussia only staff officers, adjutants and captains (from 1888) were considered mounted on duty in the infantry. Only these also carried a parade over‑cover; the others used a service cover as underlay (different, for example, in the Saxon infantry, also different in the cavalry). Parade over‑covers were often adorned with special emblems, especially in guard formations. Since 1875 there was a unified riding harness in the Prussian army with brown leather parts for officers. Detachments to riding lessons at officer riding schools (Hannover) were possible.

Note: For the introduction (1907) of the field‑gray uniform and its development up to 1918 see the general presentation under the focus: The First World War.